Showing posts with label travel. Show all posts
Showing posts with label travel. Show all posts

Saturday, June 29, 2024

Cahokia, Illinois is a key example to how robust life was in the Americas long before Christopher Columbus

The Americas prior to Christopher Columbus were far from the untouched wilderness we have long been taught in school. They were instead a complex environment that worked because of the interplay between humans and natural forces, as I noted in my recent article about historian Charles C. Mann’s book 1491: New Revelations of the Americas Before Columbus.

I was particularly interested to get back to the section about Cahokia, which is now present day in Illinois just down the highway from where I grew up in Edwardsville and practically in the shadow of the St. Louis Arch (see these photos from my most recent visit to Cahokia).

I would have liked Mann to include more about Cahokia. But he colors in a bit of the amazing story of the Cahokia tribe of the Illiniwek people. Here are some of his highlights:

  • Anyone traveling up the Mississippi River in 1180 would’ve seen the 120 "Cahokia mounds" looming in the distance. 
  • Monks Mound was (and still is) the largest of the mounds and is the largest man-made mound ever built in the United States. Its base is larger than both the Pyramid of the Sun in Mexico and the Great Pyramid of Giza in Egypt.
  • With about 15,000 people, Cahokia was the largest concentration of people north of the Rio Grande. It was also really the only city - period - north of the Rio Grande. The population at the time was comparable in size to London, which, if you think about it, is kind of astounding.
  • It had few specialized craft workers and no middle-class merchants. The inhabitants really knew nothing about how cities worked so they had to invent everything for themselves as they progressed.
  • Much at the heart of Mann's thesis is that Cahokia's mounds weren’t always thought to be Native American. In the 19th century, various scholars believed them to be Chinese, Welsh, Phoenician, or others. In fact, there was very little serious study at all about Cahokia until the 1960s. 
  • Since then, there has been a flood and we have learned a lot, including the 270 bodies that have been found, with all of the burials occurring between 1000 and 1200, including overwhelming evidence of sacrifical burials. Mann notes that about 50 women appear to have been buried alive.
  • What eventually killed Cahokia's earliest society was the agricultural runoff created by their maize production, which got into Cahokia Creek and other waterways nearby. Cahokia's leaders were so focused on keeping a strong hold over their people that they didn’t pay enough attention to external environmental factors. 
  • By 1350, there was almost no one left. Never again would be that large of a Native American community be established north of Mexico.

Monday, May 13, 2024

Guided by Voice highlights the Kilby Block Party on Sunday

Going to a rock festival is a pretty big commitment that takes stamina. After Saturday at the Kilby Block Party at the fairgrounds in downtown Salt Lake City, Utah, we decided to skip afternoon acts Royel Otis, CSS, and Pond and save up for the evening lineup of Guided by Voices, Interpol, and LCD Soundsystem.

It was a fine decision as those three acts were well worth the price of admission. We danced away to festival closers LCD after a razor-cool performance by Interpol, and the weekend’s clear highlight, GBV as the sun set behind their stage.

Leader Robert Pollard was in fine form, with even a couple of his patented high leg kicks. “I Am a Scientist,” “Teenage FBI,” “The Best of Jill Hives,” “Glad Girls,” and many other staples dotted a tight set. Pollard promised 21 songs in an hour and he delivered.

  1. Everybody Thinks I'm a Raincloud (When I'm Not Looking)
  2. Meet the Star
  3. I Am A Scientist
  4. Dance of Gurus
  5. Motor Away
  6. Jack of Legs
  7. Tractor Rape Chain
  8. For the Home
  9. Boomerang
  10. Focus on the Flock
  11. I Am a Tree
  12. Haircut Sphinx
  13. The Goldheart Mountaintop Queen Directory
  14. The Best of Jill Hives
  15. Alex Bell
  16. Your Name Is Wild
  17. Game of Pricks
  18. Glad Girls
  19. The Rally Boys
  20. Encore: Teenage FBI
  21. Encore: A Salty Salute



Sunday, May 12, 2024

Dinosaur Jr. highlights the Saturday lineup at Salt Lake’s Kilby Block Party

I’m excited and lucky to have travelled this lovely Mother’s Day Weekend to beautiful Salt Lake City, Utah to not only visit with some of my closest old high-school friends but to join them at the Kilby Block Party.

It’s a three-day festival. We didn’t attend on Friday, unfortunately missing Vampire Weekend, Courtney Barnett, Alvvays, Kara Jackson, and a few others I would have liked to have seen. But that’s ok because we now still had two full days of shows to see, which is plenty, seeing as I can’t remember the last full-on music festival I attended. Perhaps it was Lollapalooza in St. Louis and Chicago back in the 1990s. 

I had hoped to catch Beach Fossils at 2:35, but we were a little late for that so headed to see hot new band Slow Pulp at 3:25. They were a little drowned out by some Rage-like band from one of the other stages.

But the main action of the day had us getting a good spot early for Dinosaur Jr., which played at 5:10. It was a greatest-hits set, with highlights including “In a Jar,” “Out There,” “Feel the Pain,” “Just Like Heaven,” “The Wagon,” “Start Choppin’,”Freak Scene,” and closer “Gargoyle,” from their self-titled debut album. The sound was great and the moshing crowd and band kept the one-hour set energetic.


After a tasty plate of butter chicken from the Himalayan food truck, we headed over to see Belle & Sebastian, one of my favorite bands. This was my first time seeing them in concert and they entertained well from a distance, with many from the crowd invited to dance on stage for the last few songs. Highlights of the 10-song set included “Get Me Away From Here, I’m Dying,” “I Want the World to Stop,” “Piazza, New York Catcher,” and “The Boy With the Arab Strap.”

We hung out for a few cool songs from Santigold, then caught the end of Bombay Bicycle Club’s set before finishing the evening with Death Cab for Cutie playing all of its classic album Transatlanticism before morphing into Ben Gibbard’s other band Postal Service. I think this was the first time I had seen Death Cab, and while formerly being a favorite band (and it was cool that Jenny Lewis came out to play with them for a bit), I’m not sure if they stand the test of time all that well in my book.

Friday, May 10, 2024

Yeah, Salt Lake City has lots of Mormons, but there are lots of other fun things to do there

I’m headed to Salt Lake City, Utah, so I wanted a good book to get me in the mood. Luckily, professor of American history Benjamin E. Park has just released American Zion: A New History of Zion.

Park is a life-long Mormon who says the stories he was raised on are quite different from what he’s discovered in the historical record, even that of the Mormon library at Brigham Young University. “At the founding meeting for what was then the Church of Christ on April 6, 1830, Joseph Smith, the faith’s ‘first elder,’ dictated the revelation that commanded the faith to keep ‘a record.’ [However,] the new faith’s historical record was primarily envisioned to reaffirm Smith’s role as a prophetic leader and encourage followers to obey his dictates.”

Smith’s first church was actually started way back near Fayette, New York. Even before that, when he was 15, he claimed God descended upon him in a pillar of light and assured him that even though the world was sinful, his own sins would be forgiven.

The controversies started from the beginning. Brigham Young claimed to be Smith’s successor and burned all the existing history at the time so nobody would question his authority. By now, some 400 sects have sprouted that verge from Smith’s original visions for what this American-grown religion would be about. The thesis of the book is to narrate “the long history of cultural wars waged over Mormonism’s purpose and mission.”

Park continues on with the religious or spiritual or whatever visions young Smith encountered along his way. At that point I lost interest in the fairly academically-written tome and decided to instead look at what things I might like to do in Salt Lake City, although with two days at the Kilby Block Party planned, there won’t be time for much else. 

According to “36 Hours in Salt Lake City” in The New York Times, some possible interests include:

  • “Celebrate the repeal of liquor laws that required bars to operate as private clubs and collect membership fees. The Red Door has dim lighting, a great martini list and kitschy revolution décor — yes, that’s a Che Guevara mural on the wall. Squatters Pub Brewery serves high-gravity beers from the award-winning brewmaster Jenny Talley.”
  • If we need to walk off the rock’n’roll, there’s The Red Butte Garden, “nestled in the foothills above the University of Utah campus. The Living Room is a lookout point named for the flat orange rocks that resemble couches. Sit back and absorb the expansive views of the valley, mountains and the Great Salt Lake.”
  • “Chart your own architecture tour. The city’s Main Library, a curving glass structure built in 2003 by the architect Moshe Safdie, has fireplaces on every floor and a rooftop garden with views of the city and the Wasatch Mountains. For older buildings, wander the Marmalade Historic District, home to many original pioneer homes from the 19th century.”
  • A growing non-white share of the population means there are great restaurants to be found, including Tibet, Bosnia, and Somalia ones. This includes Himalayan Kitchen, “a down-home dining room with turmeric-yellow walls and red tablecloth tables, where dishes include Nepali goat curry, Himalayan momos, and steamed chicken dumplings served with sesame seed sauce.”
  • “As the only sizable city between Denver and Northern California, Salt Lake City gets many touring bands passing through. Hear established and up-and-coming acts at places like the Urban Lounge and Kilby Court.” Ok, I will.
  • I kind of can’t believe, with the area STILL getting snow, that I’m not skiing “28 miles east at Park City’s Utah Olympic Park,” but alas it seems my ski season is over.

Thursday, April 4, 2024

Dinosaur tracks and Corona Arch make for a rocking vacation

After a hike in Arches National Park two days before that was four times as long, it was nice to give our feet a rest on Sunday with a short, three-mile roundtrip hike at Corona Arch outside of Moab, Utah. 

That was after we stopped to climb Potash Road Dinosaur Rocks and Petroglyphs to view dinosaur tracks from the Early Jurassic Period - about 190 million years ago. The tracks we saw were on a rock slab that had fallen from higher up. The part where the dinosaurs left tracks - about 10 animals in total - had been preserved by other rock covering it until it fell and split open. The larger tracks on the slab were from a dinosaur that was about twice as big as a human, while the smaller tracks were from ones about the size of a turkey. The dinosaurs were moving about 3 mph when they left the markings. 

Also along this stretch on Utah Highway 279, we stopped to view rock art right alongside the road, where many people also just park their vehicles to get out and climb (although not on the preserved rock art). The art was created by Native Americans between 6000 B.C. and 1300 A.D.

I really loved and recommend the hike to Corona Arch on Bureau of Land Management land. Formerly known as Little Rainbow Bridge, the Arch got a reputation on YouTube as a place where people would swing from a rope they would attach to the massive arch. That seems terrifying to me because where I took that photo above from, it was very windy and there was a straight, very long drop down to the Colorado River and train tracks below. In 2013, a man miscalculated his rope swing and smashed to his death. Now, rope swinging from the arch is prohibited, at least for now.

We finished our vacation with a night in Grand Junction, Colorado, which has a lovely downtown with lots of shops, restaurants, and funky statues. It's the home of Colorado Mesa University. Then we flew back home out of tiny Montrose/Telluride airport.

Wednesday, April 3, 2024

Mountain biking in Moab, Utah is a dream come true

I've always loved mountain biking. I don't do it anymore as much as other activities like tennis and road biking, but when I do, I always have a blast (even when tumbling bike over heels down cliffs, which seems to happen way too often to me).

So knowing that about me, you can guess that Moab, Utah has been a place I've wanted to visit for a long time. It's known as the mecca of mountain biking in the U.S. I took about a three-hour ride on Saturday with my family and didn't do anything too daring, but it was an exciting taste of what the area known for Arches and Canyonlands national parks has to offer. 

We rode in Dead Horse Point State Park, which is located on a mesa (a flat-top mountain) high above many breath-taking views of the Grand Canyon-like sandstone cliffs of Canyonlands National Park and the Colorado River.

It seemed like we barely explored the 17-mile mountain-bike trail system located in the park. It takes a long time to go a little way over such rocky trails, especially with our 10-year-old in the mix. That said, she was able to conquer the many obstacles along the way and this is a really good option for other families with young kids (and bike rentals, although pricey, are available right there in the park at the trailhead alongside a handful of camping yurts).

Other points to note:

  • Dead Horse Point allegedly got its name from many horses dying there from exposure to the elements high on the mesa (it was a very windy ride, at least on this day).
  • It has provided a set for many movies and TV shows, including Con Air (1997), Joe Dirt (2001), MacGyver (1985), Mission: Impossible 2 (2000), Westworld (2016), and, most famously, the ending scene in Thelma & Louise (1991).

 

Monday, April 1, 2024

Arches is a national park from another time and place

That long-ago image of Delicate Arch from Life Magazine in Arches National Park must have been imprinted on my mind because this jaw dropping-at-every-turn place has been on my bucket list my whole life. A lot of the park - a few miles north of Moab, Utah - reminds me of scenes from Planet of the Apes (“the Forbidden Zone”) and other Hollywood sci-fi and Western classics. 

We took an 8-mile hike around the Primitive Loop on Friday - our first of three full days based in Moab - and it was epic the whole way. Even the last two miles, when we were all getting pretty exhausted, was spectacular, as we had to cross and climb massive, sky-high rock formations. The start and end of the trail were fairly busy with voyagers, but the entire middle of the loop, the furthest parts away from the parking, were nearly all our own.

With 2,000 or so natural sandstone arches, the park has the highest density of arches anywhere on Earth. The salt beds under the ground are what have created the arches. 

It became a national monument in 1929 (after resistance from Calvin Coolidge, Herbert Hoover made it happen) and a protected national park in 1971. The fact that nearly 2 million people visit Arches each year is very tough on the fragile ecosystem, as compression from footsteps makes it very difficult for the soil to recover from human contact.

Other interesting tidbits:
  • Humans have occupied the area since the last ice age ended 10,000 years ago. Spanish missionaries saw American-Indian tribes there 700 years ago but Europeans didn’t settle there until Mormons did so in 1855. They didn’t last long before moving down to Moab. 
  • FDR and LBJ significantly enlarged the size of the park over the years, Dwight Eisenhauer allowed for a portion of road to go through it, and Richard Nixon designated it a national park but shrunk the size of it considerably in the process.
  • Writer Edward Abbey was a park ranger there from 1956 to 1957 and turned his journals during that time into his classic Desert Solitaire. 
  • In terms of wildlife, we didn’t see much besides kangaroo rats and prickly pear cacti, but there are actually a lot of foxes, cougars, rattlesnakes, and other plants and animals.

Friday, March 29, 2024

Hot springs offer a refreshing and unique experience in Glenwood Springs, Colorado

I belong to a pool in the summertime, but I wouldn’t say that lounging in a man-made body of water with a raft of other humans is exactly my idea of a thing to do all day. That said, the Spa of the Rockies at the Glenwood Springs Lodge in western Colorado is a pretty great experience to include at least once in your life.

Fresh off of five days skiing, the best features of the hot-springs park are the massage showers and chairs in the hottest end of the two-football-field-long pool, which rests alongside Interstate 70 (with the semis rumbling past not far away), a gondola taking people up to explore the area’s caves and amusement park, and a walkway over to the cute town of Glenwood Springs, where we ate a delicious Nepalese meal. 

We experienced some of the reasons that Glenwood Springs is considered one of the country’s most walkable cities, strolling across that pedestrian bridge above the waterway and interstate and witnessing the many roundabouts and innovative parking infrastructure that originated in the 1980s as the city decided to battle traffic congestion. 

What makes the town feel so nestled into the landscape is that it’s where the Roaring Fork and Colorado Rivers meet down below the spa. Indigenous people have lived in the area for thousands of years and Glenwood Springs is a home-rule city of about 10,000 residents. It was established in 1883 with the name of Defiance and was made up almost entirely of gunslingers, gamblers, and prostitutes. Isaac Cooper is considered the founder of the town but his wife didn’t like its vibe, so she encouraged a name change. They built the main part of the spa’s building (seen above in the photo) in 1888. 

It’s always been a popular and convenient place for visitors passing through near the Colorado-Utah border. President Teddy Roosevelt spent one summer on vacation at the nearby Hotel Colorado (pictured), gunslinger Doc Holliday of O.K. Coral fame is buried in the cemetary, and serial-killer Ted Bundy escaped the county jail for 17 hours at the end of 1977.

Tuesday, March 26, 2024

Mountain powder makes skiing contagious

Skiing in powdery snow must be what flying feels like to a bird. Instead of each wing, it's each leg - left then right then left - swooshing, gliding really, through the show. 

It’s been many years (maybe in Park City, Utah or Lake Tahoe) when I last skied in such fluffy conditions as I have this week at Copper Mountain, which is about 50 miles west of Denver.

Each night, as we sit in the hot tub soaking our sore thigh muscles after a full day of skiing, there has been snowflakes falling into our hair. A light dusting of 2 to 5 inches of fresh snowfall each night has made the mountain our paradise.

If the people I’ve seen attempting to learn how to ski back East at some of our local-ish Pennsylvania places like Whitetail and Liberty were learning in this powder, they would not be dropping like flies and falling on their faces into the unforgiving snowcone mush and slush that is very difficult to navigate.

It’s so easy here. And I’m probably skiing the best I ever have in my life. Such ease and control. My old skis are still not very fast, but I’m now confident in much tricker spots and through the forests off the main runs that my daughter loves to take me into. The two of us took a wrong turn the other day down a steep, rocky, bumpy path. We eventually made it out, even agreeing it had been a fun if slightly foolhardy challenge. Years ago or maybe even just a year or two ago, that would have been a much trickier predicament.

I’m really glad the enthusiasm for skiing from my family has worn off on me. Even if it’s at Whitetail and Liberty. But when possible, the West is the best.

Tuesday, March 12, 2024

Mountain biking, hiking, and more await in Moab, Utah

I'll be soon headed to Copper Mountain, Colorado for what looks like the final ski trip of the season. We're very lucky to get to go there twice this winter of 2023-24. That part of the the trip is easy. No mapping out needed. Just ski every day and sleep every night. But I need to plan out the last five nights of the trip.

After skiing on the last day at Copper, a four-hour drive west on Interstate 70 to Moab, Utah sounds rough, so we'll break it up by staying an hour west of Copper at Glenwood Springs. Since we'll be travelling with kids, it's a toss up as to whether we'll head to the Glenwood Hot Springs Resort, which might be just what our bodies need after five days on the slopes, or Glenwood Springs Adventure Park, which includes a gondola ride, a cave tour, and several rollercoasters.

Then it's on to Moab, a place I've always wanted to visit. It's a small town surrounded by sandstone sculpted by wind, sand, and sun, much of which is in Canyonlands National Park and Arches National Park. I've mainly heard about it because mountain biking is one of my hobbies. Even though I haven't been doing it as much as usual lately, I'm pumped for the family adventure and I think the kids are going to love it. We have four nights planned there and really 4.5 days before we fly back out of the Grand Junction, Colorado airport.

Among Moab's most notable pop-culture touchstones: parts of 1989's Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade were filmed there and part of Edward Abbey's 1968 enviro classic novel Desert Solitaire was set there.

For our bike riding, since we'll have our 10-year-old with us, we'll be sure to mostly stay away from the daring and epic mountainous red-rock trails that I associate with Moab. That said, this blog has all kinds of great ideas to keep us busy for at least half of our stay. Here are some possibilities:

  • While our little one is pretty tough stuff, we'll probably want to check the barometer by starting with the Rowdy/Wrangler at Horsethief Campground, which is 1.5 miles and billed as "the best beginner bike trail in Moab for kids."
  • The Intrepid Loop Trail at Dead Horse Point State Park is a 1.1-mile mostly-flat trail with some rocky terrain and views of the Colorado River. After that initial stretch it gets tougher but turning back is an option.
  • Jurassic Trail looks like a cool 3-miler that "sits on the western side of the Klondike Bluffs" and includes "stunning views ... such as the nearby mountain ranges and overlooking various bluffs ... colorful clay that dates back to the Jurassic Era."
  • Mill Creek Parkway is a 2.5 miles out-and-back in town on a paved route. "There’s also a stunning stream that flows alongside the path that comes from the nearby La Sal Mountains."
  • Moab Canyon Pathway is another paved trail that runs for 8.8 miles "along the southernmost border of the Arches National Park." It offers "stunning and scenic sights that you’d be hard-pressed to find anywhere else or along any other bike path." But we should be aware that the whole trail can somehow take about three hours.
  • If we succeed at some of these, we may proceed with some more intermediate-level trails.
  • If we don't, and the weather is nice enough, we might have to do some whitewater rafting at Red River Adventures.

Key hikes to do in Moab include:

  • The Corona Arch Trail, a 3-mile moderately strenuous hike above the Colorado River Canyon to Corona Arch, which is less busy than some other spots in nearby Arches National Park and some say it's the most beautiful. The detour to Pinto Arch is said to be worth doing as well.
  • Dead Horse Point is said to be most stunning at sundown and a lot like looking out over the Grand Canyon. It's also near where Thelma and Louise drove along back in 1991. Same for Double Arch and Delicate Arch (which is the one on Utah centennial license plates; it's a mile-and-a-half hike in Arches).
  • "The Fisher Towers Trail explores the Fisher Towers, one of the Utah canyon country’s most bizarre landscapes. The area is a maze of soaring fins, pinnacles, minarets, gargoyles, spires, and strangely shaped rock formations east of Moab," notes Visit Utah and several other people.
  • If we want to explore for dinosaurs, we should hit either the Dinosaur Tracks Trail or the Mill Canyon Dinosaur Bone Trail.

When it comes time to imbibe:
  • The New York Times recommendations are La Hacienda ("a tasty pair of fried fish tacos"), World Famous Woody's Tavern ("cold $2 drafts ... some say the floor is painted red to cover up bloodstains from brawls"), and Milt's Stop & Eat ("fresh chili, mouthwatering double bacon cheeseburger, creamy chocolate malt"). In general, Moab's downtown area is "pretty darn cute."
Before flying back home out of Grand Junction, Colorado, hopefully we'll have time for a quick hike or at least walk around the downtown. Lands End Road up to Grand Mesa and the short hike behind the visitor center at Colorado National Monument are both possibilities.

Friday, March 1, 2024

RIP Ali Hassan Mwinyi and remembering the good life in Tanzania

Mwinyi with Michael Jackson
Tanzania became independent from Great Britain in 1961 and Ali Hassan Mwinyi became the East African nation's second president, serving from 1985 to 1995. It was during that time that Tanzania made many of the reforms and economic leaps that made it possible for me to honeymoon for three weeks there in Fall 2005. For that, I'm thankful to Mwinyi, who has passed away from lung cancer at the age of 98 in Dar es Salaam.

He also led the effort to bring sanctions again South Africa for its apartheid and he called out the U.S. for being so weak on South Africa's dictatorial government of that time. Mwinyi had been president of Zanzibar and helped transition that island to be more fully integrated into the country. Before becoming the president of all of Tanzania, he had also serves as minister of tourism and helped transition the country into being a tourist destination His death got me thinking about that amazing 24-day trip-of-a-lifetime I got to take to Tanzania. Here are some excerpts from what I wrote about it nearly 20 years ago.

We landed at Kilimanjaro International Airport in northern Tanzania three days after our wedding. We had a welcome chance to recover from the weekend of festivities at Camp Greenkill, New York and the long flight with a three-night stay at Moivaro Coffee Lodge outside of Arusha, a town of about 300,000 residents that serves as the launching point of nearly all safari expeditions. We lounged by day at the lodge's pool and enjoyed Tanzania's fine selection of beers by night on the deck of the lodge, gazing out at the dark night and brilliant stars. When we weren't battling the huge brown spider that took up residence in our room, we were ingesting what would become the staples of our diet for the next three weeks: excellent coffee, rice and curries, eggs, and fruit. We also took a walk in a local village that is located in a crater and supplies fairly fertile ground for terrace farming of crops such as coffee and banana trees. Then we took a taxi into Arusha and walked around the markets, which sell items ranging from spices to Masaii medicine to crafts and carvings to dried fish.

After finally being rested up, we got picked up and traveled by Land Rover through many dusty villages and over bumpy roads to Kibo Hotel, at the base of Mt. Kilimanjaro. We met the eight people who would join us on the climb: Thomas from Switzerland, Eva from Germany, Jen from Nottingham (UK), Mike and Steve from Manchester (UK), Jeremy from Scotland, Matt from Portsmouth (UK), and Claire from Dublin (Ireland). Kili is 19,800 feet tall, is Africa's highest point, and is the tallest free-standing mountain in the world, so we knew it wouldn't be easy. And it wasn't. Kili also features five different ecosystems, so each day, the views and terrain were very different. We started our six-day climb in the tropical rainforest, and we hadn't been hiking for 10 minutes when we spotted several blueface monkeys (similar to baboons) in the trees above the trail. Even though we carried our own daypacks, there were 33 porters, guides and cooks to carry our supplies, such as tents, water, outhouse-cleaning supplies, and buckets of meat. The food was really good and plentiful. The porters set up our mess tent each morning and evening, and the 10 of us enjoyed instant coffee, fruits, bacon and eggs, soup, breads, fish, potatoes, meat curries, and veggie curries. Our three main guides were great – Pashion, Danny, and Strato. Their four rules for a successful climb into the high altitude: be positive, acclimatize by hiking further up the mountain before going back down to sleep each night, walk slowly slowly ("poley poley") behind the guides, and drink at least five liters of water each day. The climb was more or less an easy hike each day, until the summit day. After a five-hour walk across alpine desert (very Star Wars-like), we ate and had three hours to sleep. We woke at 11 p.m. and started the 5,000-foot ascent straight up Kili's peak. At 6 a.m., we reached Gilman's Point to watch the sunrise, and continued on around the volcano's crater rim for another two-plus hours to Uhuru Peak, the top of Africa. It was beautiful and well worth it, despite the rapidly growing blisters on my feet and my sunburned, windswept, frosted-over face. Rachel was dehydrated and hearing echoes every time I spoke, but we made it back down the summit in one piece at noon. We napped for an hour, then ate and hiked back across the desert for six more hours to camp. We took a different route down on the last day, a rapid and sublime hike through the mountain's lush eastern rainforest, where we saw monkeys, a dik dik (mini deer), and a civet (wild cat). Eight of the 10 of us made it to the peak, and we celebrated with lots of Safari and Tusker beer the night we returned to Kibo Hotel, not to mention some long, hot showers.

The next morning, the two of us said farewell to our crew and rode with our driver back to Arusha to meet up with our safari guide. Cyst, a member of the Barabiac tribe, must be the most knowledgeable and friendly guide in all of Tanzania. He supplied us with endless knowledge about the dozens of animals we viewed during our six-day safari. We saw two very rare animals: the black rhino and two leopards. However, we probably enjoyed the elephants, giraffes, and lions the most. They were plentiful and would often walk right past our Land Rover. The bush of the Serengeti and the vast wildlife of the Ngorongoro Crater were endlessly fascinating and emotion-stirring. For example, one group of elephants had some fun with us by pretending to charge our vehicle and moments later, we spotted an elephant that had hurt itself and was dying in a pond with a crocodile circling it ready for some lunch. The animals we saw included ostriches, baboons, vervet monkeys, jackals, badgers, hyenas, genets, mongoose, hyraxes, zebras, warthogs, hippos, cape buffaloes, hartebeests, wildebeests, topis, Grant's gazelles, Thomson's gazelles, impalas, waterbucks, and bushbucks. The only major animals we didn't see were the cheetah and the python. The lodgings were great too. We knew we were staying in tents, but we had no idea tents could be so nice. The Masaii warriors were our hosts each night. They wear all red, have big piercings in their ears, and have a strict diet of milk, blood, and meat from the cows and goats that they herd. Another nice treat: our company booked a really couple from L.A., Jill and Aaron, in nearly all the same lodgings each night for the last two weeks of our honeymoon. Not only were they also on their honeymoon, but Aaron plays in a rock band that I know and like. Small world.

The last seven nights of our trip were spent on the island of Zanzibar, right off the coast of Tanzania. Considering that the guidebooks noted how this is one of the most exotic places on Earth, it was pretty surprising to leave the airport and see trash everywhere for miles and miles. On the other hand, we got to the east side of the island and stayed for four nights in the thatched-roof huts of Matemwe Beach, a gorgeous stretch of white sand, blue/green water surrounded by coral reefs along the Indian Ocean. One day we snorkeled with a group of scuba divers next to "Tom Cruise and Brad Pitt's private island" and saw plenty of striking and unusually colored and shaped fish among the reefs. After three nights of beach bumming, we headed back across the island to Stone Town, a small touristy area along the Zanzibar Sound in the 400,000-population (and 95 percent Muslim) Zanzibar Town. We saw a house that Dr. Livingston "I presume" lived in, and we visited a spice farm. We spent most days wandering through the markets in the narrow alleyways of Stone Town, which Rachel said reminded her of the Arab Quarter of the Old City in Jerusalem. Each night, we met up with our honeymooning friends and even dared to eat at the risky fish market along the water one evening. The hotel workers had told us to stay away. They had a point. After a couple of bites of my shrimp and lobster on skewers, I set the food down and watched as the street kids of the area made a beeline to my plate. This was certainly the low-point of the African meals, the rest was pretty good, but we were still more than happy to find a couple of pizza places in Stone Town. That's all we ate for the last two days of our time there. There was also a nice coffee shop that afforded us a view of the water and the dangerous road crossing at the center of town. We ended our trip with 30-plus-hours of flights. And, more importantly, we were malaria and yellow fever and typhoid free, and more happily married than ever!

Wednesday, February 28, 2024

A short and fascinating history of the Caribbean through the eyes of the tremendously wordy James Michener

James Michener’s novels are of a time before the Internet, when people could still absorb themselves in 1,000-page tales with hundreds of characters. His typical format was to start from the very beginning of existence and travel chronologically through until the present. (Memorably, his novel Hawaii begins with a bird pooping on the land, which gives rise to life there.) 

I’ve always been in awe of the writer - who I’m distantly related to through my mom’s dad’s sister’s husband Guy Michener - and the legendary amount of words he wrote. Without summing up the massive novel Caribbean, here are 10 really interesting things we should all know from the book, which was written in 1989. (Michener died on October 16, 1997). It should be noted that Michener mostly used historical facts to color the background of his stories of people, who he fictionalized.

  • Technically, Florida and the Bahamas are not part of the Caribbean, but all the countries that border the sea in South and Central America are.
  • Warriors from South America arrived on the islands in the 1300s and ended the long peace that had flourished with the Arawak people, who were skilled farmers and fishermen with an advanced social structure.
  • These warriors were cannibals and often ate the men they captured and would steal the women for procreation. This goal of exterminating other types of people was happening all over the world at this time. 
  • These “Caribs” were not unlike the Spartans in Greece, and they believed eating the most powerful male enemies gave them particular skills and bravery in battle, while mating with the most beautiful women enhanced their own race for the future.
  • Christopher Columbus accidentally landed in the Caribbean in 1492 and began a long campaign of European colonization and exploitation of gold and many other resources. Columbus and Spain introduced slaves from Africa there.
  • James Michener
    England's Sir Francis Drake became legendary for raiding Spanish ships and settlements and essentially entering the region into the golden age of pirates.
  • Barbados and other countries became major sources of sugar, which became a heavyweight economic driver, making many European colonists exceptionally wealthy through their morally and ethically corrupt explotation of slave labor.
  • Later, the French would also swoop in and their colonization style contrasted in significant ways from the Spanish colonizers. Generally, while the Spanish were interested in wealth and power, the French - and also the British - wanted to build settlements and create trading networks.
  • The Haitian Revolution was the first successful slave revolt and became the first Black-led country in the Western Hemisphere.
  • During World War II, the islands would again become strategic spots for both the Allies and the Axis nations as locations where they all wanted to place their military warships and subs. Leading into modern times, the Caribbean countries continue to evolve their cultural identities as they all still struggle for freedom and self-determination. They are fascinating places far beyond their basic island sand-filled beauty.

Sunday, February 25, 2024

Liberty offers a nice semi-local ski option

Yesterday, I enjoyed my first trip this season to Liberty Mountain Resort for a day of skiing with my son and two of his friends. Despite temperatures in the mid-40s, the snow was slushy in the morning but pretty nice and powdery (by East Coast standards) all afternoon. 

It feels like a small miracle to get any skiing in nowadays with such noticeably short winters, but at least I’ve been to Copper Mountain in Colorado for five days, Whitetail also in Pennsylvania for one, now Liberty, and have another Copper trip planned in the coming weeks.

Liberty is just past the northern Maryland border in Pennsylvania and is typically packed on the front side with little tots learning to ski and all kinds of other people seemingly risking life and limb. I stay away from there but the kids like to ride the rails in the terrain park. There used to be a half pipe but it was difficult to cover it with main-made snow and wasn't open much, so it was removed. 

On the back side, there are two fun double black diamonds and a good handful of moguls. It’s amazing to see the amount of people taking brutal falls on those. No wonder there was an army of ski patrol lining some of the runs. There seems to be far more crashes than out west, with people falling left and right. One girl took a total face plant into the snow next to me. That might be ok in Colorado, where the powder could even feel refreshing to the face, but not at Liberty with this harder snow.

The East Coast resorts are definitely don't offer the same workout as ones in the Rockies. By comparison, the longest run is about a mile downhill at Liberty, with the longest one at Copper being three miles.

Also, Liberty's history is interesting. Itb was developed in the 1960s with big hopes to become a pretty massive destination. But it was bankrupt in the 1970s, purchased by a new owner and renamed Ski Liberty, which it remained until taking its current name in the 1990s. It has a 100+-room lodge and is a popular golfing spot in the summer, and it's now owned by Vail Resorts. The way the weather looks - warming up over the next couple of weeks - people may be golfing soon and not skiing much more at all this season. 

It's a very close call, but I like Whitetail just a little more than Liberty. Either way, it's nice to have ski options within a couple hours from home.

Tuesday, February 13, 2024

Paradise comes in waves as beach resorts come in and out of style

Prototypical gorgeous beach resort
In the first part of my look into author Sarah Stodola's The Last Resort: A Chronicle of Paradise, Profit, and Peril at the Beach, I covered her history of beach and resort culture. But how did all these places become our idea of "paradise?"

Take Nicaragua, Nobody ever visited there as a tourist because, from 1937 to 1979, it was led by a series of dictators. Daniel Ortega became the leader in the 1980s but those dictators didn’t just go away. They became the U.S.-backed Contras and civil war unfolded. So it took many more years before the Central America's gorgeous beaches gave way to opening as the locale of hotels and resorts. Then it stook still more years for Nicaraguans to understand the ways of customer service. Ortega recently came back into office and proceeded to raise taxes, sparking protests and deadly crackdowns followed by a bad bungling of the Covid crisis. It appears Nicaragua’s tourism surge may have unfortunately been short-lived.

The beautiful beaches and great surfing of Senegal, on Africa’s western-most side, have a different story. People don’t think to go there because they figure it’s so far away. But really, the country is a seven-hour direct flight from New York City. So an even bigger factor in Senegal's struggle to become a tourism destination may be the cost of the flight, which is typically about double the cost of flights from the U.S. to Europe.

Actually, Senegal was the top tourism country in sub-Saharan Africa alongside Kenya up until the 1980s, but a separatist movement and then a president who deprioritized tourism has left a once-glowing Club Med and other properties to pretty much crumble. Another need that’s been identified is for Senegal to become knowledgeable about marketing itself as a tourist destination. Not only does a potential workforce not yet have the fundamentals of customer service once the crowd would arrive, but the country’s tourism marketing infrastructure (including a pretty inactive government agency of tourism promotion) has yet to be established. Other problems with going to Senegal include the costly and unreliable forms of traveling once in the country, the lack of online services for things like travel booking, and the high costs of good things like cheese that have to be imported from places like France. 

In Stodola's section about Tulum, Ibiza, and Cancun, she laments the places that have lost their paradise status. Starting in the 1980s, a flood of travelers began descending on Tulum, south of Cancun on the east side of Mexico, for its fine white sand beaches and “water of a color that writers have long strained to describe fittingly.” Tourism there began as lodging in grass huts with a hammock for sleeping at the low rate of $10 per night. Daytrippers would visit the nearby Mayan ruins. In 2003, an Argentinian model opened Coqui Coqui - no longer in business - and the New York fashion industry made Tulum a major destination. Now you might spend $50 for some nachos and guacamole. 

One of the many consequences of massive growth and development is that wastewater is taken from the resorts and dumped in the jungle, creating a groundwater that spreads disease far and wide through the vast river system in the area. Instead of relying on the latest advances, 1950s technology is being recreated there, the engineers are not learning from history and even much of the marketing hails Tulum as super eco-friendly. Waste could be turned into a sellable commodity, such as energy, if it was concentrated and contained, but instead it is being dumped into the ocean and other waterways.

At party beach resorts, like most of the ones in Ibiza, people are looking for ecstasy over paradise, and much of the action takes place indoors in the clubs rather than out on the beaches, which are mainly relegated to daytime-hangover spots. These Ibiza nightclubs were launched in the 1970s as a direct reaction to Club Meds heading the family route. Debauchery continues apace in infamous foam, paint, and suds parties. 

While Ibiza and other scenes were first forming for Europe’s youthful parties, “middle-class teens with disposable income came of age” in the U.S. in the 1960s and headed to Fort Lauderdale. In the 1980s that changed to Daytona Beach, with help from MTV. Once the U.S. coasts filled up, inspired by that new cable station's airing of the debauchery happening down in Florida, kids started looking further afield to places like Cancun. 

Club Med
In Cancun, absolutely nothing more than coconuts existed before 1970. It was entirely a planned resort. There was no Cancun before the Mexican government invented this plan for a place with ideal climate and fewer hurricanes than other places. Now there are much more frequent hurricanes, there are daily truckloads of beach sargassum that is undoubtedly mistaken for seaweed rather than the sea life-killing wastewater mutant weed that it is, there is the dying reef hidden offshore, and there is the scary beach erosion being caused by the aggressive development of high rises. 

Club Med, which I admittedly had a blast at in Puna Canta, Dominican Republic in April 2023 (in my first-ever all-inclusive adventure), was launched in Salerno, Italy in 1954. That had ballooned to 64 Club Meds across the globe by 1972. The company changed, as I've noted, from its more partying early image to being family friendly at beaches and ski mountains. All-inclusive resorts have Club Med leading the way but many other companies have gotten aboard that train and the concept is found just about everywhere.

Monday, January 29, 2024

Reliving our pandemic Colorado ski trip at Copper Mountain

Our extended weekend at Copper Mountain - about an hour west of Denver along I-70 - has been a perfect escape from the post-holidays doldrums. We arrived late Wednesday night after an uneventful day of flying from BWI and got to ski Thursday through Sunday, with a morning of skiing still ahead tomorrow before flying back late into BWI.

Being back at Copper helped us relive the month we spent skiing there during the heart of the pandemic - in December 2020 and January 2021, but that time we stayed a 15-minute drive away and this time we were at the base of the mountain. The two-floor condo was as close at it gets to the Super Bee lift and Christy Sports, where I demoed possible ski choices to replace my ancient but beloved ones. It provided a comfortable and very pleasant setting for my family, our neighbors the Jones’, and my son’s friend Caio.

We didn’t see much of the teens, who were off on the hardest runs and the terrain park and also went to the Woodward skate and scooter facility. These videos show what my son is up to. Meanwhile, I took it pretty easy most of the time, as a casual but proficient skier who mainly likes to do the groomed blues, a few black diamonds, and good helpings of trees and moguls, especially with my 10-year-old daughter, who is a bit of a daredevil herself.

It’s nice to have a great condo because after skiing each day, there’s not much you want to do but eat, drink a little beer and whiskey, and veg out. That said, we also hit the ice rink, dinner with friend Sasha at JJ’s next to our condo, the snow maze, a beer and pool playing one night at the pizza joint in Center Village, and ample candy buying.

I’m already getting excited for our return trip to Copper in the spring.



Sunday, January 21, 2024

Sports Illustrated, Pitchfork, and skiing provide great examples of the need to adapt to an always-changing world

News this week that Sports Illustrated has fired its entire staff and Pitchfork has been folded under GQ's operations is not exactly shocking, but it is very sad and yet another sign that mainstream, reliable journalism will get just a little bit harder to suss out. I had read SI since I was a little kid, always looking forward to the brilliant long-form journalism that "illustrated" so many compelling sports stories.  

The news reports have not been framed as total endings of these two esteemed publications, but the writing is clearly on the wall. And it's a big problem, especially because, for example, kids are getting their knowledge from often suspect social-media accounts and adults are internalizing and espousing information from their Facebook feeds and elsewhere that is from unknown or unreliable sources.

Those are examples of the many, many needs for the U.S. to implement media literacy in school curriculums so that, for example, we can all be spouting a lot less questionable misinformation to each other all day every day.

Another thing that is dying a bit in this country - like once-reliable media - is skiing, because snow has become so sporadic as weather patterns become different and more unpredictable. But that was not the case Saturday, when our family drive our kids and some of their friends to White Tail in Mercersburg, Pennsylvania near the Maryland border. It's about 90 minutes from home, and then it took us an hour in traffic for the last mile just to get to an over-full parking lot. I waited in the car for about another hour after that to wait for a parking spot to open up (and to deal with a dead battery in our friends' minivan that we borrowed) while the others got out and started skiing. The lift lines were nuts and it truly seemed that everyone in the D.C.-Maryland-Virginia-Pennsylvania area had shown up to hit the slopes. Once getting past the base lift, however, it was pretty fun on the side mountain with the shorter lift lines and the more difficult runs, especially as the afternoon wore on. The crowds thinned because it was bitter cold and the Baltimore Ravens were playing in the football playoffs. 

The world and humans evolve very slowly, and we've moved slowly in the face of many difficult changes. Ski resorts will look very different in 100 years because of climate change. There will no doubt be some difficult times in the years ahead as those industries figure out how to adapt to changes in snowfall patterns and locations. Likewise, media and journalism has gone through monumental change in recent decades and we as humans have not figured out how to consume a much faster, voluminous, and constant flow of information yet. 


Wednesday, January 3, 2024

Venice, Mulholland, Hollywood and more in our final hours in Los Angeles

Venice Beach Skatepark
After our misstep staying at a stinky AirBnB in Santa Monica on our first night in Los Angeles, we regrouped to get a refund and book the final night of our trip at the luxury Le Parc on Melrose in West Hollywood. It would prove to be the New Year's Eve climax to yet another perfect family-vacation day.

And it wouldn't have been our family without starting it at Venice Beach, and letting Jackson watch the famed Venice Skatepark on the beach for a bit. He only had his scooter with us and they are not allowed there. But I was pretty impressed that he said he would definitely get in and ride if it was allowed, without any worries about the hot-shot skaters and hordes of tourists watching. I always love hanging out in Venice and, after our walk, we headed to meet our cousins, a newlywed couple of musicians, at Gjusta on 3rd and Sunset for a tasty and fun outdoor breakfast.

I had to forego my planned celebrity-gawking stop of the O.J. Simpson murder house on Bundy in Brentwood so we could swing through the Culver City Skatepark. While Jackson scootered, the rest of us took a little climb up to the Baldwin Hills Scenic Overlook. We then killed a little time before checkin at our hotel by strolling the Hollywood Walk of Fame. You need about 30 minutes for that, unless you want to truly try to see all the stars on the pavement or want to spend more than the 10 minutes we did in the awesome Amoeba Music record store. At that point, we were more than ready to enjoy our hotel room for the rest of the night.

Venice Beach
The next morning we awoke to 2024 by playing tennis on the roof of the hotel, with magestic views of the Hollywood Hills and downtown L.A. After checkout, we wanted to make the best of our remaining hours on the West Coast before our 3 p.m. flight back to Baltimore via Phoenix. After grabbing some breakfast and snacks from Whole Foods and driving down Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills, we set out for a drive up the 405 to take winding and famed Mulholland Drive from west to east. Jackson read out famous addresses and we noted them as we passed the homes of Warren Beatty, Jack Nicholson, John Lennon, Madonna, and many others. As expected, most of the houses are well hidden behind gates and hills, but there are plenty of great sites and overlooks along the whole way, culminating in great views of the Hollywood sign at the Wonder View Trailhead.

Wonder View Trailhead

The three of us got In-N-Out Burger and Zoey got lunch at Ike’s Love & Sandwiches (which incidentally serves a John Ritter Burbank exclusive sandwich of fried chicken, wasabi honey mustard, and provolone). Then it was long, tired flights back home after a very successful family vacation.

Tennis at Le Parc on Melrose


Sunday, December 31, 2023

Santa Barbara to Malibu to Los Angles for a beach driving vacation

Santa Barbara
The last day of our coastal car trip arrived and it literally turned into sunny Southern California for us. We woke up in beautiful Santa Barbara, with those rain showers of Northern California in our rear view, and took the 101 (there are very few slivers of the Pacific Coast Highway - aka Highway 1 - at this point) on our route through Malibu and into Santa Monica in Los Angeles.

It’s always kind of eye opening, like it was for us in Santa Barbara, when you arrive to a new place in the dark and wake to see part of what you missed upon arrival. It rained again through the night in Santa Barbara, but the sun peeked out as we began our morning walk from the Mason Beach Inn to get açaí bowls at Backyard Bowls. Jackson was happy that the skatepark dried before we left town, so we hung out there, alongside the bustling beach, played a bit in the surf, and did some window

From there, we weaved in and out, back and forth on both the 101 inland and roads along the coast - passing through byways in Ventura still suffering from the remnants of flooding that injured several people in recent days - on the way to Malibu. The highlight there was spur-of-the moment stop at the Malibu Bluffs Park, where there happened to be another skate park to keep Jackson happy and a beautiful short hike down through rattlesnake territory and brush-covered ocean overlooks. 

Jackson/Santa Barbara Skatepark

We then made a quick stop to check out the ritzy Malibu Country Market, where the guidebooks say makes for a good place to spot celebrities coming down from the hills. I pictured it as a kitschy convenience store, but it’s actually a bunch of high-end shops, so we got out of there quickly since it was less unique and interesting than we thought it would be.

It was on to our final destination of the trip. Upon arrival, our AirBnB about a mile from the beach in Santa Monica was still being cleaned. It smelled like beer, and when we returned after dinner hoping to give the cleaning crew enough time to scrub it clean, it reeked of cheap cleaning solution. Luckily, dinner at Cassia on 7th and Arizona was a Vietnamese taste treasure. It’s off the beaten path of the cheesy beach and upscale shopping areas. 

The stinky garden condo and the bad smells of what must have been a recent frat party remained. The owner’s initial communications were very kind, but he hadn’t yet returned our messages by the time we were exhausted from the day, and we were already falling asleep when he messaged us to say he would fully refund us. We’ll look for an acceptable place in the morning. Hopefully one with a pool where we can lounge and watch the fireworks for New Year’s Eve.

Zoey/Chasing Santa Barbara waves

Jackson/Malibu Skatepark

Me/Malibu Bluffs

Santa Monica sunset